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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end venues. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble place earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.